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Domaine Comte de Vogue

de-vogue-barrels.jpgOwning a massive 70% of the revered Musigny vineyards (including all of Petits Musigny), it is no surprise that Comte de Vogue is considered amongst the very highest echelon of producers in Burgundy.  It also makes sense that their vineyards have been held by the family for centuries.

Whilst de Vogue's wines have always been held in very high regard - and have been priced accordingly - it is fair to say that through the 60s to the mid 1980s quality was erratic at best, and often the wines were disappointing.  I've not seen a single bottle that has been exceptional, although admitedly I've tried fewer than a dozen wines from this period.

The appointment of Francois Millet in the late 1980s, along with similar changes on the administrative and viticultural teams, saw quality soar and the domaine reaffirm its place near the top of the qualitative hierarchy.  Millet remains winemaker to this day, and quality is accordingly exceptional.francois-millet.jpg

Everything at Comte de Vogue appears to have the sole purpose of improving the wine quality.  In the past year massive cellar renovations have been completed, allowing for new barrel rooms, a dedicated storage area for de Vogue's wine library as well as more space for the winery itself.

Winemaking is fairly traditional, and yields are cropped naturally low.  The grapes are entirely de-stemmed, and vinifications are relatively warm (up to 32 degrees).  The proportion of new oak is relatively low, perhaps 15% for the village wine and up to 45% for the grands crus Bonnes-Mares and Musigny.  All of the younger vines (generally up to around 25 years) from the Musigny vineyard go in to the wine labelled Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru.


The wines are certainly built for long-term ageing, generally not revealing their full potential for at least 10 years or even longer for the top wines.

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