Classification:

Cinquième Cru Classé, St.-Estèphe AC  (Fifth-growth in 1855).

Average Production:

Up to 7,000 cases of grand vin annually.

Recent En-Primeur prices:

2008 - approx A$50 - $60

2007 - approx A$55 - $68

2006 - approx A$55 - $60

2005 - approx A$60 - $70

2004 - approx A$50 - $60

Overview:

Directly across the road from its neighbour, Cos d’Estournel, the relatively unrecognised Château Cos Labory is certainly capable of producing impressive wine.  Declared a fifth-growth in the 1855 Classification, and one of only five properties from the commune of St.-Estèphe to be recognised at all, the output from Cos Labory during much of the 20th century has been mediocre at best.  By all accounts, a handful of very impressive were produced but alas, I have not tried them.

However, notwithstanding several underwhelming bottles from the past few decades that I have tried, it is pleasing to report that this is, once again, an address worth seeking, especially in light of its relatively modest pricing policy. 

Vineyards:

About 45 acres, or 18 hectares of vines, with an average age of about 35 years although many vines are over 50 years.  The soils are a mix of gravels and clay.  Interestingly, and somewhat unusually, mechanical pruning and harvesting is undertaken here.  The method of lutte raisonée is practiced here, which is essentially minimal use of chemical treatments, and only when absolutely necessary, generally for the prevention of mildew.

Winemaking:

Following destemming and crushing, fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats for up to a month (including post-ferment maceration).  Malolactic fermentations take place in a combination of vat and barrel, after which the wine spends about a year in oak, around 40% new (in 2009 was 50%) and is racked every three months.  Bottling is done on site via a mobile bottling facility, and the wines may receive a light filtration and/or fining depending on the vintage.

Click here for tasting notes.

AVAILABLE NOW:

2009 - $70 per bottle.

Please note that this wine is offered on an ‘en-primeur’ basis, with delivery expected mid-2012.